Smith Rock is a truly majestic place. Its towering golden volcanic rocks jut hundreds of feet up from a winding, lazy river canyon. You will feel small here.
I first visited Central Oregon's Smith Rock State Park a few years ago in autumn when my parents visited from New York. I was shocked that such a place exists in the Pacific Northwest. Although I've never been to Utah, I imagine Smith Rock would fit in just fine there - with its deep river canyons, sheer cliffs, and innumerable rock climbers.
Every winter, my wife's coworkers take a weekend trip to Bend. On Saturday, we break trail on our snow shoe hike up to Vista Butte after a few inches of snow fell the night before. From the summit, we take in views of Mt. Bachelor, adorned with a fresh coat of powder.
Hoping to get out for another hike on Sunday before heading back to Portland, Lindsay and I suggest we check out Smith Rock State Park. We wake to partly cloudy skies, and - after a hearty breakfast - we are on our way. Even though I had been to Smith Rock before, once it is in sight, I am in awe of what I see.
Smith Rock's tuff and basalt rock towers over the aptly named Crooked River.
We encounter a few dozen people at the trailhead and continue over the Crooked River Bridge. I can't help but look up - constantly - enjoying the contrast of golden red rock against a bright blue sky. Every now and then the wind gusts intensely - and I wonder how climbers aren't just blown off the wall. I even spot a man hundreds of feet above us standing on a cliff eyeing a slackline blowing in the wind. I hope he will not attempt to walk across it. Thankfully, he does not, and I am relieved.
We hop on the Misery Ridge Trail and begin climbing switchbacks and I remember why the trail is called Misery Ridge. Every few minutes I pause to look behind me - to gaze at climbers high on the wall, to enjoy the peaceful movement of the meandering river that cuts its way so beautifully between the rock formations. For .75 mile we climb without much reprieve. Every so often there is a flat section to catch my breath and have a sip of water. I use these moments to snap photos. And, before I know it, the group is well ahead of me again, but I don't mind.
A good spot to pause and catch my breath.
At this point, I have de-layered and am breathing heavily. After a few more switchbacks, we are at the Misery Ridge Summit. We take in the views and I try to not get too close to the cliffs.
After a short rest, we continue onwards towards the iconic Monkey Face on the other side of the ridge. The wind picks up significantly here. Apparently, on a clear day, most prominent Cascade peaks are visible - but not today. Although we are under blue sky, in the distance clouds hang low over the Cascades.
Lindsay walking (jogging, really) towards Monkey Face.
Since the wind is gusting so much the dust begins blowing in our eyes. I find myself jogging down the switchbacks until we are below the behemoth Monkey Face. I notice four women in pink climbing and am glad my feet are on the ground - but also can't help but wonder what the views are like from the ledge they are on.
This next part of the hike is just lovely. We meander along the Crooked River and I enjoy a different perspective of the park. My mind is quiet - I am grateful to be here.
I wander down a few side trails that take me right next to the river - for a moment I wonder if there are any rattlesnakes around. In the summer, this would be prime territory for them. I enjoy a few minutes of solitude and then jog to catch up with the group.
As we get closer to the park's entrance I see many more climbers on cliff faces. Before I know it, the Crooked River Bridge is in sight and I know we are close to the end of this lovely hike.
Final view of the winding Crooked River.
“I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery—air, mountains, trees, people. I thought, ‘This is what it is to be happy.’”
Distance: 3.8 miles / Elevation gain: 1,000 feet