Yoho National Park is a true gem. It is home to the most stunning scenery in all of the Canadian Rockies, including the prized Lake O'Hara. Our visit to Lake O'Hara was the highlight of our trip, despite cold temperatures, rain, snow, and a cold that inevitably afflicted me after a few days of hiking in the rain and sleeping in hostels. Lake O'Hara is one of the most scenic areas in all of the Canadian Rockies - turquoise alpine lakes, hanging valleys, snowcapped mountains, and premier hiking. To make it even more special, Parks Canada, the country's national park service, restricts access to the area to preserve its special, fragile landscape.
We spend the day before our visit driving the Icefields Parkway (another post coming soon) and stop in Lake Louise for a quick dinner before driving to Emerald Lake to catch the sunset. We arrive a little late as the sun had already fallen below the surrounding mountains. At least ten photographers are set up on the lakeshore with their expensive looking cameras facing the Emerald Lake Lodge. I imagine they are all competing for the same contract.
The reflection is supreme.
Emerald Lake Lodge
The park was named after the Cree expression for awe and wonder - it's easy to see why as we stand at the lakeshore. The mountains reflect perfectly in the glass-still lake, which is truly the color of emerald - although it's hard to tell that from these photos.
It is so quiet. I look across the lake at the lodge and imagine how special it would be to wake up to this view at sunrise. Lindsay informs me the lake is this color because of fine particles of glacial sediment suspended in the water.
As darkness falls we say goodbye to Emerald Lake and drive to our hostel - the most rustic of the three we stayed at during our trip. When we arrive it is pitch black and the place is dark - I imagine this would be a great setting for a horror film.
I have wild dreams that night - one of which involved a demonic grizzly bear who stalks the hostel guests. I wake with a sore throat and feel a cold coming on. I am in awe, though, when I look across the valley to Takakkaw Falls - Canada's second highest waterfall, although apparently this has been disputed because Takakkaw free falls, without breaks, 830 feet. It's raining, but I snap a quick photo anyways.
“The torrent, issued from an icy cavern, rushes tempestuously down a deep, winding chasm till it gains the verge of the unbroken cliff, leaps forth in sudden wildness for a hundred and fifty feet, and then in a stupendous column of white sparkling water, broken by giant jets descending rocketlike and wreathed in volumed spray, dashes upon the rocks almost a thousand feet below, and, breaking into a milky series of cascading rushes for five hundred feet more, swirls into the swift current of the Yoho River.”
We drive in the rain to the Lake O'Hara parking lot to catch the shuttle to the campground. The park service restricts access by a quota system to protect and preserve the area, which is, quite simply, magical. In order to reserve a campsite we had to call three months to the day ahead of our planned visit. We must have called 150 times in 25 minutes and finally, thankfully, we got through. We hop on the bus with 20 or so other folks who are all planning on day hiking. They seem surprised that we plan to camp - the weather forecast calls for rain over the next few days.
After a bumpy 11 kilometer bus ride we are dropped off at the campground. Campers mill about making breakfast and coffee. The warden gives us the rundown.
We set camp in a light rain and pack for our day hike. We walk up to the Le Relais day shelter and buy a tea and carrot cake - we had read the carrot cake was sublime and indeed it is. We warm up over our tea and plan our hike. We had initially hoped to do the renowned Alpine Circuit but due to the rain and slick rocks we opt to skip the steep and sketchy Wiwaxy Gap and Huber Ledges. The trail climbs 1,600 feet in less than a mile and traverses Huber Mountain on narrow ledges. Maybe next time.
The Alpine Club of Canada has maintained an outstanding trail system around Lake O'Hara. Most of the main trails have connector trails so really you can choose your own adventure by linking them. Every afternoon between 3-4 pm the Lake O'Hara Lodge offers a tea buffet to hikers and campers. On a rainy, cool day we plan our hike with afternoon tea at the lodge on our minds.
The hike begins with an easy walk around Lake O'Hara. The lake is still and we stop frequently to take in the reflection of the surrounding mountains. We see a few other hikers but I am surprised at how quiet it is here.
I can feel a cold coming on and my throat stings with every breath of the cold air. Regardless, I am so happy to be here, away from the tour buses and crowds along the Icefields Parkway. The trail begins climbing above the lake and soon we are crossing rock and boulder fields.
We arrive at Lake Victoria. At this higher elevation we notice some of the larches are beginning to turn. The subtle yellow adds so much to an already beautiful landscape. I imagine how beautiful the valleys would be just a few weeks from now - golden larches, blue sky, and snowy mountains.
We continue our ascent and as we approach Lake Oesa (7,438 feet) a light snow begins to fall. I know our views will not improve but nevertheless I am still in awe of how beautiful it is here. The landscape reminds me of the Enchantments in Washington State. Stunning turquoise alpine lakes framed by snowy peaks, (not yet) golden larches, and boulderfields.
We take the alpine route to Opabin Lake along the Yuckness Ledges. The snow continues for a while and then tapers off. The views are impressive.
The 2.3 kilometers takes a while since the trail is all rocks and boulders. Thankfully, it is easy to follow. We descend to the Opabin Plateau - a hanging valley perched on a rocky cliff above Lake O'Hara. We have a quick snack as a cold rain falls. We eat quickly and begin climbing to Opabin Lake.
At this point, we decide to take a connector trail back to Lake O'Hara instead of taking the All Souls trail to Lake MacArthur. We can see the alpine route is in a cloud and I imagine the visibility would be poor. Not ideal conditions.
We take the quickest route back to Lake O'Hara and arrive at the lodge just in time for tea. Cold, wet, and tired, we enjoy a buffet of tea and delicious cakes and cookies in the cozy lodge. I imagine how magical it would be to stay here in the winter. After an hour, the dream ends, and we put on our wet rain gear and walk back to the campground.
We spend the entire afternoon playing cribbage and talking to other campers in the cooking shelter as a steady rain falls. After dinner the rain lets up so we walk to Lake O'Hara for one more view of the lake.
Lights flicker across the lake. Darkness settles. All is quiet. I am happy.
I hope to return someday.
