On the Fourth of July last year, as fireworks boomed loudly for hours in our neighborhood in NE Portland, Lindsay and I decided we would spend the next year’s holiday outside of the city where we might find a little bit of peace and quiet.
In the spring, when we were deciding where to go for the holiday weekend, we threw out a visit to the provincial parks north of Vancouver as an option. We last visited British Columbia in late summer of 2016 and were blown away by the beauty of Canada’s westernmost province. The epic scenery - pristine alpine lakes, towering peaks, rugged mountain ranges - left me speechless.
Squamish is a small town at the northern end of the Howe Sound. The area attracts outdoors-lovers and is well-known as a destination for climbers, hikers, mountain bikers, and trail runners. The granite monoliths that rise thousands of feet from the sea reminded me a little of the majestic granite walls in Yosemite.
Day 1: Recovery + a short hike on the Four Lakes Trail in Alice Lakes Provincial Park
We arrive at our Airbnb around 1 am and Luca wakes at 6 am… ready to party. We peel ourselves out of bed and get moving on the day. The magnificent Stawamus Chief, a 700 meter massive granite dome, towers about Squamish. The view is awe-inspiring.
Need. More. Coffee. We drive to a local cafe and have breakfast and a few coffees - along with a bunch of young climbers (I affectionately call them dirtbags) who were living out of their vans.
After breakfast, we decide we need to move our bodies. Most of the hiking in the area is challenging and generally not ideal for families with small children. Many of the hikes we came across in our research were at least 12+ miles with 3-4,000+ feet of elevation gain. Some included sections with ladders or ropes. Steep drop offs. Rocky terrain.
We land on an easy four mile hike in Alice Lakes Provincial Park to stretch our legs and recover from last night’s drive and the early wake up. The hike is lovely, but nothing remarkable. It’s just nice to breathe in fresh air and - MOVE. Luca enjoys the time in his pack and takes a good rest.
We see a few signs warning of a black bear in the area but thankfully we have no encounters.
We end the hike in a perfect spot - the playground in the day use area. Luca runs around for a bit before we return to the Airbnb for a nap. Myself included.
Day 2: the Sea-to-Sky Gondola and adventures in the rain
The next morning, we wake to Stawamus Chief and the surrounding mountains socked in. Just our luck. We take the 10 minute Sea to Sky gondola ride up the mountain and rise about 2,900 feet above sea level. The views of the surrounding mountains, the Howe Sound, and the forest are stunning despite the low hanging clouds.
Luca is captivated by the scene and I wonder what he is thinking as we glide through the fog on our way up the mountain.
Not pictured: the dozen or so tourists about to close in on Lindsay. I was lucky to get a few shots of just her!
At the top, we get ready for our hike - the plan is to do a handful of miles. Our plans change, however, when it starts raining - and soon enough it’s dumping rain. We get a few miles in before returning to the visitor’s center for a beer and a snack. We are absolutely soaked but Luca is completely dry thanks to the waterproof cover for his pack. Visitors look at us with a bit of shock and disbelief on their faces as if thinking, these women are absolutely crazy. Despite being a little cold and wet, I’m still happy to be here enjoying this beautiful place even if the “views” are obscured by rain and clouds.
Day 3: An easy hike in Garibaldi Provincial Park - Cheakamus Lake - 7-8 miles
On Friday night, I strike up a conversation with a local about kid-friendly hikes in the area (he has a daughter around Luca’s age) and he suggests the Cheakamus Lake hike in Garibaldi Provincial Park as a great alternative to the strenuous Garibaldi Lake hike, which we had been considering (over 12 miles with a little more than 3,000 feet of elevation gain). When we wake up Saturday morning, it’s raining and it doesn’t appear like it’s going to break so we opt for the more forgiving hike to Cheakamus Lake.
After a briefly awkward encounter with a woman in the parking lot who was looking for “the trail to the mountain” (but apparently not the one we are at) we are on our way.
It’s an out-and-back hike so we have no real expectations other than making it to the lake. The trail is beautiful. When we start hiking, a light rain falls and fog clings to the forest across the river. The forest is lush and old growth cedars line the trail.
I carry Luca in his pack and am grateful for the minimal elevation gain.
Soon enough, we reach the lake. Despite the low clouds, it is beautiful. I imagine what the lake would look like on a blue bird day.
After enjoying a mile or two along the lake and snapping some photos, we turn around and head back to the trailhead.
While we only had a few days to explore Squamish, I am so glad we made the trip. The towering mountains, coastal forests, views of the Howe Sound, great hikes, delicious beer, and friendly people all made it worth it. I hope we can return someday.