In honor of the National Park Service's centennial, here is an overdue post recounting our recent trip to Glacier National Park. Over the Fourth of July weekend, we traveled to Glacier for three days. Happy birthday, NPS! Thank you for protecting and preserving this nation's beautiful spaces and places.
“Far away in Montana, hidden from view by clustering mountain-peaks, lies an unmapped northwestern corner- the Crown of the Continent. The water from the crusted snowdrift which caps the peak of a lofty mountain there trickles into tiny rills, which hurry along north, south, east and west, and growing to rivers, at last pour their currents into three seas. From this mountain-peak the Pacific and the Arctic oceans and the Gulf of Mexico receive each its tribute. Here is a land of striking scenery.”
My parents spent nearly two weeks in Glacier a few years ago. Since seeing their photos and hearing their stories about their hiking adventures I have wanted to visit this stunning park. Our desire to visit was also ignited by climate scientists' grim prediction that the park's remaining 25 glaciers could disappear within the next decade. (There were approximately 150 glaciers present in 1850.) We had planned to visit our friend at Flathead Lake for the Fourth of July and decided there was no better time to see Glacier, even if it was only a short stay.
We make the nine hour drive from Portland to Finley Point on Flathead Lake and arrive in time for a beautiful sunset over the lake. The Mission Range turns purple and the water settles to glass. In the morning we wake early and hop on the road, hoping to beat the crowds on the long weekend. Montana is a beautiful state. We enter the park around 10 am and make our first stop at the iconic Lake McDonald after a quick visit to the Apgar Visitor Center.
“...hereby dedicated and set aside as a public park or pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people of the United States under the name of ‘The Glacier National Park;’ ... and for the care and protection of the fish and game within the boundaries thereof.”
There is something magical about the color of the rocks in Glacier and how clear the water is. We take in the view for a few moments and then continue on the Going to the Sun road.
We stop at the Lake McDonald Lodge and walk to the lake. I spot some rocks sticking out of the water which make the scene more interesting.
Onwards to Avalanche Lake. We arrive at the trailhead to hundreds of cars parked in the lots. We find one of the last remaining spots in an RV parking area and hope that the rangers don't mind. The hike to Avalanche Lake is a short 4.5 miles round trip but a great way to stretch our legs and see some of the park's beauty before continuing on to St. Mary and Many Glacier. We arrive at the lake and about a dozen people are looking across it at a small black bear foraging for berries. The bear disappears into the bushes within a minute or so. We walk down the lake shore to sit on a log. I dip my feet in the ice cold water.
We continue driving and pull off the road every few minutes to take in the views off the iconic road.
“There is no highway which will give the seer, the lover of grandeur of the Creator’s handiwork, more thrills, more genuine satisfaction deep in his being, than will a trip over this road.”
Heaven's Peak
St. Mary Lake and Wild Goose Island
In mid afternoon we reach St. Mary's and decide we are exhausted and ready to get to Many Glacier to set camp and take a nap. On our drive to Many Glacier we see cars stopped along the road and people observing a moose and her calf across Swiftcurrent Creek. We slow down but do not want to create a jam so observe for a moment and continue on towards Many Glacier.
We reach the Many Glacier Campground and decide at once that we have a prime campsite, nestled along Swiftcurrent Creek with an incredible view of Mount Grinnell. Our first priority: hang our hammock and take a snooze.
Mount Grinnell glows in afternoon sun (taken from my hammock along the creek next to our campsite).
We set camp and wander over to the Many Glacier Hotel, hoping to have a beer on the porch and take in the sweeping views. Due to construction, though, the porch was closed so we wander back along the lake to our campsite.
“How glorious a greeting the sun gives the mountains! To behold this alone is worth the pains of any excursion a thousand times over. The highest peaks burned like islands in a sea of liquid shade. Then the lower peaks and spires caught the glow, and long lances of light, streaming through many a notch and pass, fell thick on the frozen meadows.”
The afternoon sun shines on the mountain peaks and the meadows. I am happy to be here experiencing the fragile beauty of this place.
We make a delicious dinner of coal-cooked potatoes, corn, veggie burgers and sausages, and asparagus. We play a few games of cribbage next to the fire. The sun sets late and the sky remains light until around 10 pm. Just after dark I realize the campground is quiet. We fall asleep soon after and sleep soundly.
We sleep in and roll out of our tent without a sense of urgency, content to go with the flow. We enjoy coffee and oatmeal for breakfast.
With lunch packed, our 3 liter hydration packs full, our bear spray holstered, we are off on the 10 mile round trip hike to Iceberg Lake. The hike is one of the most popular in the Many Glacier area - and for good reason. After a short amount of climbing we exit the wooded area and have sweeping views of the valley and mountains. Apparently this area is prime grizzly terrain (I learn this after our visit) but we do not see any wildlife.
“Give a month at least to this precious reserve. The time will not be taken from the sum of your life. Instead of shortening, it will indefinitely lengthen it and make you truly immortal. Nevermore will time seem short or long, and cares will never again fall heavily on you, but gently and kindly as gifts from heaven.”
I am surprised by how many hikers do not carry bear spray, especially solo hikers and families with children. Good thing this trail is so busy. The trail returns to the forest and around 3 miles into the hike we emerge from the forest and have a view of the cirque that is home to Iceberg Lake. Clouds settle over the cirque and as we walk closer the temperature drops.
Before long we reach Iceberg Lake and enjoy our lunch on the rocky shore away from most of the other groups. We marvel at the lake, covered in ice, and the granite wall that surrounds the lake.
“The snow is melting into music. ”
After a nice leisurely break at the lake we pack up and begin our hike out. We feel good and decide we'd like to take a 5 mile detour to hike to Ptarmigan Tunnel even though it is closed. We run into a few groups who suggest tacking it on.
As soon as we reach the junction with the Ptarmigan Tunnel trail we realize we will see far fewer hikers here. We are right. We hike about a mile and see no one. We make a lot of noise and intermittently yell in order to alert any bears that we are around. We are almost relieved to run into a few hikers who share that the hike up to the Tunnel's saddle is absolutely worth the extra ascent. Excited, we continue onwards.
Ptarmigan Lake
We reach Ptarmigan Lake and have a snack. We are alone except for two young women who we can hear and see in the distance as they climb the switchbacks towards Ptarmigan Tunnel. The climb is grueling but not too bad. The views are stunning and by far the best we've experienced in the park so far. (This could be in part due to the fact that we are basically alone.) Since the tunnel is still closed for the season we decide to scramble to the top of the saddle to take in the views from great heights.
After a few minutes of cherishing the views and near solitude we begin our descent back to the trailhead. We both state that the extra 5 miles were worth it for these views and for the opportunity to experience the park's stunning beauty away from crowded trails and viewpoints.
We return to our campsite in late afternoon, exhausted. We make an early dinner and decide to head over to Many Glacier hotel to catch the sunset. We arrive and find a harsh wind coming off the water. Clouds have settled over the peaks in the distance. We enjoy a Going to the Sun IPA as we look out at the sweeping scenery.
We had hoped to hike to Grinnell Glacier on Sunday but the rangers advised against the hike due to trail conditions. Instead, after enjoying oatmeal and coffee and tearing down our site, we hike to Grinnell Lake.
A lovely morning scene along Swiftcurrent Creek.
The hike is easy, and my legs welcome this after yesterday's 15 miler. The views are beautiful. We hike along the short of Swiftcurrent Lake - I enjoy a different perspective of the Many Glacier Hotel and the mountains. Soon, we are at Lake Josephine. The trail along the lakeshore is nice and the views are plenty.
“There is nothing so American as our national parks.... The fundamental idea behind the parks...is that the country belongs to the people, that it is in process of making for the enrichment of the lives of all of us.”
We arrive at Grinnell Lake and within seconds are swarmed by an army of blood thirsty mosquitoes. We snap a few photos and begin walking just two minutes later.
On our hike out I reflect on the power of our short visit to this beautiful, special place.
Life can move so quickly sometimes, especially when one is constantly moving and distracted. I've learned I need to be intentional about reflection since more and more often I have trouble sitting still and quieting my mind. Hiking forces me to be present and to have moments of quiet reflection. After a few miles in the woods or on the trail my mind falls into a meditative state- similar to what I've experienced on long runs. Miles may pass and yet my mind remains free of thoughts or of worries. I focus on the rhythm of my step and hiking poles touching the ground. The smells and sights and sounds of the landscape. The combination of movement, exertion, and natural beauty - rain or shine - allows me to breathe in details and immerse my whole being into a place.
I am grateful for these moments of simplicity. For these sights of grandeur. For the opportunity to visit our nation's beautiful parks and breathe in their essence. I hope we can preserve them for our children, grandchildren, and future generations.
“...all is still, as if the arrangement of pale shapes held the world together. Then I breathe, and the mountains breathe, setting the world in motion once again.”