Ever since I started backpacking in 2014, I’ve wanted to venture into the North Cascades to experience the ruggedness and remoteness of the landscape for myself. Jagged snow-topped peaks (the park is home to 300 glaciers), emerald alpine lakes, mountain ridges, wildflower meadows, densely forested valleys, diverse flora and fauna … what more could one seek in a back country adventure? When I hear the famous John Muir quote, “the mountains are calling, and I must go” - I think of the North Cascades.
The place feels truly wild.
When my brother Myles suggested we backpack the 34-mile Copper Ridge Loop in North Cascades National Park during the winter, how could I say no? In March, we submitted our itineraries to the National Park Service hoping our top choice would be approved - and, in early April, we learned that it was.
While we would have loved to have had three or more nights to do the loop plus Whatcom Pass and Tapto Lakes (photographer’s heaven), we had limited vacation time and wanted to minimize the number of nights away from Luca (thanks Jim and Susan!), so we opted for a three-day, two-night trip.
The days would be long and the elevation gain significant - but we were ready to experience the wonders of the North Cascades, even if we would only scratch the surface.
Day 1: Hannegan Pass Trailhead to Copper Lake - 11 miles, 4,500 feet elevation gain
We arrive at the Hannegan Pass Trailhead around 9:15 am. A light rain is falling (typical for us) so Lindsay and I decide begrudgingly to put on our rain pants - they are not breathable - but our stoke is high.
Myles tests his Jetboil and it catches on fire briefly (he didn’t twist his propane canister on properly so propane was spewing everywhere) - thankfully disaster is averted (no injuries or explosions). Phew.
We’re on the trail by 9:45 or so. I know we have a long day in front of us but I am excited to be in this beautiful place. The trail climbs steadily but gently. Views of Nooksack Ridge are limited - the mountains are pretty socked in. We are excited to see some blue sky breaking behind us - but our spirits are dampened when the rain picks up again. Ruth Creek rushes below us and in front of us Ruth Mountain dances in and out of the clouds.
Looking towards Ruth Mountain.
After about three miles or so of climbing, we reach Hannegan Pass Camp and stop for a snack and to filter water at the creek. The rain has picked up, and I’m pretty soaked. The climb to Hannegan Pass over the next mile is steady and steeper. When we reach the pass, everything is socked in. It’s also cold so we don’t stay long. From the pass, we descend towards Boundary Camp (at the National Park boundary). I welcome the descent after four plus miles of climbing.
We reach Boundary Camp and the trail junction and begin the steep climb up to the ridge. Before we reach Copper Ridge, a runner we had seen earlier in the day nearly jumps off the trail when she sees Myles unexpectedly. She then reports that she had encountered a bear on the trail ahead and “did all the wrong things” (like, turned around and ran as fast as she could in the other direction). We start calling out frequently to inform the bear of our presence. Thankfully, we never encounter it.
We take a quick pack break on our climb. Lindsay laments the lack of views - but then a few minutes later the mountains emerge and we are pleasantly surprised by the sights. The fog lifted, revealing the peaks across the valley.
After our short break, we continue hiking. We still have five or six miles ahead of us and a lot of climbing. We take a brief detour from the trail to Silesia Camp for lunch - I am wiped and welcome the break. The views are jawdropping. Mineral Mountain, pictured below, stands prominently across the valley from our lunch spot. I am so grateful to be here.
Could you imagine a better lunch view? Mineral Mountain from Silesia Camp on Copper Ridge.
After a brief lunch break, we continue walking. The views from this section of the ridge (near Egg Lake) are absolutely stunning and the best of the day so far.
Before long, we begin the steep climb to the Copper Mountain Lookout. Again, the views here are amazing in all directions.
Lindsay and Myles hike towards the Copper Mountain Lookout, our final ascent of the day.
We take a quick break at the lookout before beginning the final mile or so of the day. Somehow, this feels more like three miles. I lag behind Lindsay and Myles taking pictures.
Can you spot the marmot?
After a long day of hiking and about eight hours later, we finally arrive at Copper Lake. There are only three sites on the lake, and, in my opinion, we have the best one. The views are incredible, and it’s more secluded than the other two, which are close to the privy (a poo with a view!) and the Copper Ridge Trail.
The weather is perfect - we are so lucky to have pretty clear skies, especially considering what we had hiked through at the start of the day. Knowing that the weather in the mountains can change at any minute, I am grateful for every minute of blue sky and views.
We set camp and enjoy a hot cup of miso soup before making dinner and breaking into the wine. To my surprise, the bugs aren’t bad.
The highlight of this campsite for me is the views of the mountains behind us and, in particular, watching the views change through sunset and blue hour. As dusk approaches, fog rolls in and settles in the valley. Most of my photos appear really hazy from the moisture in the air but the light is amazing. I pop on my telephoto lens and snap a few shots of the mountains to the east across Chilliwack Valley.
Mt. Redoubt from Copper Lake Camp
As night falls the stars emerge - we enjoy them for a short while before the clouds roll in. I sleep so soundly…
Day 2: Copper Lake to US Cabin Camp - 12 miles, 1,500 feet of gain, over 3,000 feet of loss
I wake early and see some color over the mountains in the east as the sun rises. We have a leisurely start to the morning and enjoy our coffee and oatmeal before tearing down our campsite. I know we have a long day in front of us, including the long, steep descent to the Chilliwack River (over 3,000 feet of elevation loss) but not before some ups and downs on the ridge.
We say goodbye to Copper Lake and are off! We pause numerous times on the ridge to enjoy the wild blueberries and the views on the last few miles of the ridge.
The hike from the ridge to the Chilliwack is steep and arduous. After about seven miles of hiking, we reach the Chilliwack. We eat lunch after crossing the river and mistakenly put our boots on - after a few minutes of walking we realize there is another crossing! Oops. The next crossing is easy but the water is absolutely frigid.
This section of trail along the river is overgrown so it is not all that enjoyable. But - we do see a dozen or so salmon making their way up the river! About a mile later, we reach Indian Creek Camp. Shortly after, we cross the creek on a suspension bridge. Then, the climbing begins again. We have a little over four miles and 1,500 feet of elevation gain remaining before our destination at US Cabin Camp, including another river fording.
As we approach the river for our second crossing, the rain picks up. (Normally, there is a cable car but it is closed for repair.) The final mile to US Cabin Camp is a bit of a slog, but I am delighted once we arrive. I am wiped!
We set camp and I set out to find a proper tree to hang our food. As I am tossing the rope over a branch about 15 feet up, I accidentally let go (ugh!) and the rope manages to get tangled on the branch. Thankfully, Myles and Lindsay save me from my idiocy and rescue the rope.
As daylight fades, fog settles in the valley.
We enjoy wine with dinner - and Myles and I enjoy a swig of whiskey - hey, he carried it all that way, why not? - and are in our tents shortly after dark. I’m exhausted from another long day of backpacking.
Day 3: US Cabin Camp to Hannegan Pass Trailhead, 10 miles, almost 3,000 feet of gain
Our alarms go off at 6 am - we make a quick breakfast of oatmeal and coffee before packing up as quickly as we are able to. We have a long day in front of us - about 10 miles - and a good amount of climbing as we have to climb from the Chilliwack up to Hannegan Pass. We also need to drive back to Seattle and then Portland so I can make it to work on Monday morning.
Shortly after we start hiking, the rain picks up. The forest is lovely. After we cross Copper Creek, a few miles in, the climbing begins. Fog clings to the tree tops and to the trees across the valley. It’s a beautiful sight.
After about five miles, we reach Boundary Camp. We have about a mile more of climbing before reaching Hannegan Pass.
When we reach Hannegan Pass, once again, it’s completely socked in. We hike through dense fog for the next few miles. If you know anything about me, you know I love a good foggy forest. While views would have been great, I am not disappointed.
By the time we get back to the car, I’m wiped. We hope to enjoy dark chocolate covered pretzels but find that pesky mouse ate through every bag of snacks!
Our three days on the Copper Ridge loop were a whirlwind - but what a phenomenal introduction to the North Cascades! I’m full of gratitude.
“To be whole. To be complete. Wildness reminds us what it means to be human, what we are connected to rather than what we are separate from.”