Last weekend, Lindsay and I kicked off our summer with a three-day, two-night backpacking trip in the Bull of the Woods Wilderness in Mt. Hood National Forest. We spent a few days researching hikes and potential destinations - we did not want to run into swarms of day hikers or a significant amount of snow at higher elevations. I came across Big Slide Lake and Bull of the Woods Wilderness in a backpacking book - the hike seemed like it was exactly what we were looking for - a moderate hike (too far for most day hikers) to a beautiful destination with ample day hiking options from our base camp at the lake. And, to top it off, Bull of the Woods is far less traveled than the other Mt. Hood wilderness areas. While we weren't expecting solitude, we knew we would see fewer hikers. We were pleasantly surprised by this wilderness gem.
At 5:30 pm on Friday we hit the road, and somehow - to our shock and delight - there is no traffic. We plan to drive into the Mt. Hood National Forest and camp along the Clackamas River. We spend the night at Indian Henry Campground and wake early to sun breaking through the thick trees. I see blue sky and smile. (After a long winter and rainy spring blue sky is a positive omen for our weekend.)
We arrive at the Dickey Creek trailhead and find only one other car parked. We double check our packs and are on the trail by 9:40 am. I reflect on our last backpacking trip - a two night stay at the stunningly beautiful Colchuck Lake in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in the Central Cascades in Washington. It's hard to believe it's been seven months since we had these packs on our backs. I am energized and brimming with excitement for a few days in the wilderness.
The Dickey Creek trail is a moderate hike of a little more that 6 miles and over 2,000 feet of elevation gain to Big Slide Lake. The approach trail leads through beautiful old-growth forests of Douglas firs, western hemlocks, and western red cedars. The trail leads along the clear creek at times and boasts mountain views closer to the lake. Pacific rhododendrons bloom and sprinkle pink and purple throughout the forest. After a few miles, we cross the creek - scooting ourselves along a conveniently and curiously fallen log to the other side. The trail climbs now at a steady grade and we begin our ascent. Switchback after switchback we climb. Rhododendrons become more frequent and are a welcomed sight. After a mile or so of climbing we come to an opening in the forest and enjoy beautiful views of the Dickey Creek Valley and the surrounding craggy mountains.
About a half of a mile from the lake I see a backpacker a little ways up the trail. I know we are approaching our destination when we cross a large rockslide (the mountain towering above us is aptly named Big Slide Mountain). We descend steeply and quickly to the lake and cross a lovely creek.
Our hike ends at this lovely mountain lake nestled in a forested bowl. The lake reflects the peaks that tower above and blue sky delights. I notice a lookout tower over a thousand feet above on a ridge to our southwest. With the exception of us and the fellow backpacker, we are alone.
We drop our packs at a lakeside campsite and make a delicious lunch - bagels, cheddar cheese, avocado, and Pacific Albacore - while taking in the view of the lake and surrounding peaks. After lunch we set up our hammock and the sound of birds singing lulls me to sleep in mid-afternoon.
After a few hours of solitude a handful of other groups arrive. We set up camp and read Peter Matthiessen's The Snow Leopard aloud by the lake. Later, we make a fire, eat dinner, and get in our tent at dusk, tired from the day's trek.
At midnight, we wake and see that the sky is painted with stars. The Milky Way faintly streaks across the sky just above the tree line to the east. Mars glows brightly in the south and reflects in the stillness of the lake.
I attempt to capture the night sky for the first time. (Since I do not have Photoshop or Lightroom and no way of processing RAW files, these are unedited shots.)
In the morning, we enjoy a hearty breakfast of oatmeal, cinnamon, and freeze-dried strawberries and hot coffee. We sit for a few hours by the lake. Although the sun has been up for hours, I watch it climb from behind Big Slide Mountain's jagged peaks to the north, illuminating the mountainside.
I observe the stillness of lake and its surroundings - one minute the water is like a mirror, reflecting the surrounding mountains. Another minute, a slight wind causes the lake to ripple away from us. A few clouds linger over the trees above lake and are contrasted by the deep blue sky.
I enjoy a few hours of this - of having no place to go, no agenda, nothing to do. Time to be present. Time to just be.
“...the sense of having one’s life needs at hand, of traveling light, brings with it intense energy and exhilaration. Simplicity is the whole secret of well-being.”
In late morning we set off for a hike to the Bull of the Woods Lookout. We climb steadily up switchbacks and encounter some snow fields. Luckily there are many tracks so the trail is easy to follow. Two miles later we reach the lookout where we enjoy panoramic views of the Cascades - the Three Sisters, Mt. Washington, and Mt. Jefferson to our south. Mt. Hood to the north remains hidden beneath the clouds.
We have a snack and take in the views before heading back the way we came and meeting up with another connector trail to Lake Lenore. We traverse Big Slide Mountain and enjoy views of Mt. Jefferson almost the entire way.
When we reach the turn to descend to the lake, we encounter a snowfield that appears difficult to pass. We instead opt to enjoy our lunch from a rocky peak above the lake. We are alone, and seemingly at the highest point of this wilderness area.
“The secret of the mountain is that the mountains simply exist, as I do myself: the mountains exist simply, which I do not. The mountains have no “meaning,” they are meaning; the mountains are. The sun is round. I ring with life, and the mountains ring, and when I can hear it, there is a ringing that we share. I understand all this, not in my mind but in my heart, knowing how meaningless it is to try to capture what cannot be expressed, knowing that mere words will remain when I read it all again, another day.”
After an enjoyable lunch, we make our way back to the lake for some hammock time and a nap. We find that every group has departed and have the lake to ourselves - a pleasant surprise (a couple arrives later but set camp far from us). Once again, we treasure the quiet time by the lake - to read, relax, observe, wander. I feel like I am a kid again.
We watch the last light fade over Big Slide Mountain and walk back to the lake. We agree this has been a fantastic weekend. I fall asleep with a full heart. At 2 am I wake and again the sky is alive with millions of stars. The Milky Way stretches over the trees above the lake. I attempt to photograph the stars again - and fail - but really, I am just happy to be here. Content to be in this beautiful place, away from the noise and lights of the city. Content to look into the Universe in peace. I stand at the lakeshore for about 10 minutes listening to the curious silence of the night.
In the morning we enjoy hot coffee and oatmeal and leisurely tear down our camp and pack our backpacks. We sit by the lake soaking up the last moments of this beautiful wilderness area before making the trek home. I am grateful for this place. Grateful for good health. Grateful for the means to travel here on my own two feet carrying only the essentials.
Grateful to have moments of quiet and time to just be present. To be here and now.
“The farther one gets into the wilderness, the greater is the attraction of its lonely freedom.”