I've lived in Oregon now for almost 5 years but somehow have never visited Paradise Park on Mt. Hood. Lindsay and I started backpacking two summers ago and have been to national forests and wilderness areas all over the Pacific Northwest - Olympic, Three Sisters, Mt. Jefferson, Bull of the Woods, McKenzie Recreation Area. Mt. Hood's Paradise Park has always been on our list.
Paradise Park is a beautiful alpine meadow area above timberline on the south west side of the mountain. It is best known for wildflowers in July and August. Our original plan was to do a one nighter but once we read the Perseid meteor shower was supposed to still peak on Friday night we decided to set out on the Pacific Crest Trail after work and find a site with an open view of the sky. We hoped to get lucky. We did.
We leave Portland after work, fight rush hour traffic, and arrive at Timberline Lodge around 8:30 pm after just missing a spectacular sunset. We walk by the lodge with our packs on and receive a curious glance or two from guests. While the lodge is beautiful I do not envy these folks one bit. My mind is set on a weekend in the wilderness. We traverse the ski slopes and meet a connector trail to the PCT. Before long, we enter the Mt. Hood Wilderness and run into a day hiker returning from a hike to Paradise Park. Even though it would have been a long day for him (12 miles round trip), he is beaming. We say goodbye and follow the trail west, towards the fading brilliant orange light that lines the sky at the horizon.
At the Little Zig Zag Canyon Overlook we find a flat spot on the ridge. For a moment we contemplate setting camp here. The mountain is partially obscured by trees. We discuss and decide to continue onwards - we both feel strong and energized. (Maybe it was the 7 pm americano?) We turn our headlamps on and continue into the night.
I've hiked a few times in the dark now and I've grown to love the solitude that comes with it long after the majority of hikers have returned home. Soon after ascending the canyon we we run into a mom and daughter who are backpacking together. They say the Zig Zag Canyon Overlook is around a mile further. Onwards.
The trail curves along some sloping meadows and before long we have arrived at the overlook, just 2.2 miles from the lodge. We take in the views and begin looking for a flat spot off the trail. I follow a steep unmarked trail up the slope and find the perfect campsite. We both marvel at the views and at our luck. By now it is after 10 pm but the night is still warm. There are no pesky mosquitoes to be found either. We crack a beer and lay on the ground to watch night fall on the mountain. Not four hours ago I was sitting in traffic on a sweltering day in the city. And now, I am taking in one of the most beautiful scenes imaginable and I barely broke a sweat. I take a moment to reflect on how fortunate I am to be able to visit such places.
“It gives the supreme touch of grandeur to all the main Columbia views, rising at every turn, solitary, majestic, awe-inspiring, the ruling spirit of the landscape.”
The moon shines brightly in the sky behind us and casts long shadows into the canyon below. We see shooting stars every now and then from the Perseid meteor shower. The light from headlamps intermittently flashes in the distance on the flanks of the mountain as climbers began their long, grueling ascent of the peak hoping to summit by sunrise. I wonder if they can see our tent glowing in the distance on this exposed ridge.
Since the night is so warm and dry, we sleep with most of our fly off, leaving almost a 180 degree view of the canyon. I wake many times throughout the night due to sheer excitement to be spending the night in the most beautiful place with no soul within at least a mile of us in any direction.
I wake early and make coffee by 6:15 am. (If you love good coffee, an Aeropress is a must have for backpacking. It's worth it.) I watch the mountain brighten slowly as the sun climbs from behind. At 7:30 am the sun finally rises over the ridge and we eat our oatmeal - once again marveling at it all.
We hit the trail by 8:30 am and begin the steep descent of Zig Zag Canyon. Many switchbacks later we reach the Zig Zag River. Crossing is not difficult although in early season or during period of heavy snowmelt I could see how challenging it could be.
We replenish our water supply and then begin the climb out of the canyon towards Paradise Park.
Soon, we reach the junction with the Paradise Park Loop Trail and continue climbing through a forested section of trail. The further we walk and the higher we get on the mountain the more frequent sweeping views and delightful wildflowers become. They paint the sloping meadows. I admire the contrast between the blue sky and bright green grasses.
We cross the North Fork of Lost Creek and find a few groups camped here along the creek.
I had read earlier in the week about a prime campsite located next to a rock curiously named Split Rock. I immediately recognize the rock and we take a short detour along a trail uphill to see if the spot is available. To our surprise and delight, it is. (On our hike out, we run into a Forest Service volunteer who informs us that. most likely, during the last eruption of Mt. Hood, the mountain spit out this boulder which then cracked into pieces. Insane!)
We set up camp and spend the rest of the day wandering the area, relaxing, reading in our hammock, napping, and just taking it all in. Around 5 pm we head down to a creek we had crossed earlier in the day to chill our beers and sit to cool off.
Later, we wander back to our site and prepare dinner. We eat in our hammock and watch the light change the mountain.
That evening, we watch the most spectacular sunset.
The sun falls behind the mountains in the distance and I turn to look at Mt. Hood.. I snap a few pictures and think there is something wrong with my camera since the whole scene is glowing. Look closely at the rock - and our tent for scale.
“There stood Mount Hood in all the glory of the alpenglow, looming immensely high, beaming with intelligence...”
We spend the remainder of the sunset watching from the top of Split Rock with a dad and his kids and another hiker. We enjoy their company. As soon as the sun goes down the wind picks up and the temperature drops. I can see how this site would be miserable in bad weather.
I sleep like a rock and wake up much later Sunday morning just before the sun rises over the mountain. We enjoy a cup of coffee in our hammock and watch the sun rise above the mountain before packing up and heading home. Thank you, Mt. Hood.
“Parks represent the wilderness inside us. The place where we can be lonely. Where we can experience solitude. They’re a place we go as a refuge, as sanctuary. The place we go out to - to come back in.””
Distance: 12 miles / Elevation gain: 2,300 feet