Has it already been a month?
On Memorial Day weekend we set out on our first road trip since Luca joined our team back in August. We were ready for a vacation and to spend some time in the woods...
We spend two lovely nights in Bandon, a small town on the Southern Oregon Coast, before making our way to the Northern California Coast Redwoods of Jedediah Smith State Park. On our way to Bandon, we stop at the Oregon Coast Aquarium and enjoy fish and chips (with fresh Alaskan halibut!) in Newport. In Bandon, we enjoy a long walk on the beach in Cape Blanco State Park (we are the only family on the beach for a while!) and spend a lot of time hanging around our delightful Airbnb nestled in the woods just out of town. How grateful I am for this vacation.
On Memorial Day, we drive from Bandon to Northern California along Highway 101.
I first visited the Redwoods when my family took a San Francisco to Seattle road trip the summer before my sophomore year of high school. We really only passed through the redwoods on our drive north on Highway 101 but I remember vividly how striking the redwoods were - these massive, gorgeous trees that soar hundreds of feet up.
Boy Scout Tree Trail - Jedediah Smith State Park - 5.2 miles
We arrive at Jedediah Smith State Park a little too early to check into our campsite so we decide to go for a hike. We drive the scenic Howland Hill Road - just a 10-15 minute drive from the campground - that winds through the redwoods. The scenery is incredible. In my last post I shared the road to Jawbone Flats in the Opal Creek Wilderness was one of the most scenic forest roads I had ever been on, and well, this tops it.
It's an absolutely gorgeous day - high 70s and sunny - and the sunlight pours through the tree tops, illuminating the beauty of these ancient trees. The redwoods are magical in all weather but being here on a sunny day is something truly special.
About 1.5 miles into the hike, we enter a magical section of trail that winds among massive redwoods. The first section of the trail had been really busy - but here, we have a few moments to ourselves. I feel as if I am in a sacred place.
Onward.
After a few hours of driving, it feels great to move my body and I know Luca is excited to have a change of scenery from his car seat.
We reach the Boy Scout Tree and rest for a few minutes before making our way back to the trailhead. Towards the end of the hike, the sun really puts on a show as it streams through the trees.
After the hike, we head to the campground, set up camp, and enjoy our first night under the stars as a family of three. Sleep mostly eludes us, but oh how wonderful it feels to sleep under the stars again.
Damnation Creek Trail - Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park - 3.8 miles
We wake early (Luca is a great alarm) to a cooler morning. Low-hanging fog clings to the trees, and sprinkles fall lightly. We eat a quick breakfast (oatmeal, of course, and Aeropress coffee - more, please) and head to Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park - located on high coastal bluffs - to hike the Damnation Creek Trail. I had read that the hike was magical on a foggy day and that rhododendron blooms in springtime provide even more beauty to the landscape.
We arrive at the trailhead just after 9 am and find a handful of other cars in the lot. We secure Luca in his pack and hit the trail. There is something about fog clinging to trees that just amplifies an already gorgeous place.
Within the 1/3 of a mile we pass about a dozen photographers set up with their tripods. I see a handful have walked off trail - thus trampling ferns and other plants on the floor of the forest - to shoot the few remaining rhododendron blooms. This area a few weeks ago must have been bursting with pinks and purples.
Onward. Over the 1.9 mile trail, the trail descends - steeply at times - 1,100 feet to the ocean. About 0.6 miles into the hike, the trail crosses the Coastal Trail and I welcome the fading traffic noise. From here on out we barely see any other hikers, a nice change from the first third of a mile.
While the redwoods are generally smaller and less impressive than other groves, the trail is still beautiful.
About a tenth of a mile from the ocean we reach a bridge over a dry creek that has a closure sign. The bridge is short and looks in good condition. The railings have been replaced by strong orange construction netting. We initially decide to follow the rules and not cross the bridge but just as we are about to head back up the trail an older couple crosses the bridge, shares that it is sturdy, and the the views of the ocean cannot be missed. We cross the bridge one at a time, carefully, and we are so glad we did. The views are stunning.
We are alone on this rugged beach. Massive cliffs rise into the fog. Waves crash at the shore. We enjoy the scene before making the grueling hike back up the trail and into the trees.
On the 1.9 mile hike back uphill to the trailhead we see only two groups the entire time. Luca sleeps most of the way. Despite the physical challenge, I am relaxed and enjoying every second of this wondrous place.
After the hike, we drive south on 101 and take the scenic drive through Prairie Creek State Park before returning to Jedediah Smith for lunch and a nap.
Hiouchi Trail to Stout Grove - Jedediah Smith State Park - 4ish miles
Our last day in the redwoods we opt to stay close to the campground. In the summer the park rangers construct a seasonal bridge across the Smith River so campers can walk to the renowned Stout Grove. In the off season, however, it's accessible from the Stout Grove Trailhead which requires a 15 minute drive up the bumpy Howland Hill Road. On the maps, though, it's clear that the Hiouchi Trail nearly reaches the Stout Grove. We decide to hike it and see how close we can get.
While this trail is unremarkable, it's still lovely as it winds along the Smith River. After close to two miles we reach an intersection with a few other trails and see a sign pointing to the Stout Grove. We reach the bank of the river and realize we will need to cross a shallow creek in order to enter the Stout Grove. We remove our boots and walk carefully across the frigid creek. After drying our feet and lacing up our boots, we climb a trail up an embankment and enter a different world - the Stout Grove.
As we wander the trail among the giants of this grove, I feel as if I am in an ancient cathedral. This place is otherworldly. It is remarkably quiet and serene despite the presence of other visitors.
While the sun is too high in the sky to really illuminate these trees, it is still a gorgeous scene. I take only a few photos here and focus on being fully present.
After a short loop in the Stout Grove we cross the shallow creek and spend some time on the banks of the Smith River. Luca enjoys playing with the rocks and cracks Lindsay and me up.
We soak up the sun for a short while before making our way back to the trailhead and enjoying our final afternoon in the redwoods. Luca is ready to go home, and we are too. Our first camping trip had its challenges but we are still so glad we made the trip.
As I reflect on our trip, the highlights for me were the three hikes. Despite the many hours spent at the campground, it was hard to keep our antsy nine month-old entertained. Luca was most happy while he was secured in his pack and able to gaze into the trees and take in his surroundings. His moms were also most happy and relaxed while walking among the trees.
While I know Luca won't remember this trip, I know that exposure to nature, to beauty, to these wondrous trees will somehow stick with him. I am so grateful for the opportunity to spend three days among these magnificent, awe-inspiring trees.